Built one run at a time.

Speed climbing gives you a standard wall, a clock, and nothing to blame. That suited me from the first session.

I broke the men's world record for the first time in Wujiang in April 2024, twice in one morning. That summer I took Olympic bronze in Paris and lowered the record twice more, to 4.74. In Bali in May 2025 I took it down to 4.64, and I held it until April 2026, two years as the fastest man in the sport's history.

In 2026 the record moved to Zhao Yicheng, and that suits me fine. Chasing is the job now. The season brought a World Cup win and a 4.60 personal best in Krakow, the inaugural Speed Mixed Relay world record of 10.89 alongside Emma Hunt, and fifth place in the final World Climbing Series standings, in a year Zhao won the title.

I am twenty years old, 181cm. Away from the wall I run LearnSpeedClimbing, where everything I know about going fast is published openly: the route hold by hold, live results, and the training behind the records.